My knowledge of Wyoming geography is pretty specific. I could very accurately describe my fair share backwoods trails around the Tetons, best camping spots off the grid in the Gros Ventre range, or even the cleanest gas station bathrooms on I-80 between Rock Springs and Cheyenne. For the most part, my experiences here have been limited to the northwest corner of the state and the roads that connect to various family, friends and adventure. Mud season, though, that time between skiing and biking, much more so than any minus 20 F night, makes me just want to get the hell out of town for a little bit. Like many other people, I waste time on travel websites looking for cheap airfare or researching three week road trips to every national park west of the Mississippi, but then reality and responsibilities set in and I am wondering how my weekends from now until May are to be spent. With mountain bikes in tow, I got the opportunity to venture out of my wintertime corner of the state last weekend, and I think I found just the cure for my mudseason blues. I’ll definitely be doing this more often so might invest in my own bike. Storing it might be an issue but I heard if you get your mountain bike wall mounted it can save lots of space.
Biking Johnny Behind the Rocks
It takes around three hours to get to Lander from Jackson, depending on the state of Togwotee pass, which has been clear for a couple weeks now. The drive takes you from the mountains, through high desert, then back around to the eastern side of the Wind River Range. I have been wanting to make the trip for years and finally got the chance to. Lander’s weather is consistently warmer than Jackson in the spring and last weekend was no exception. Temperatures teased the 70 F mark when we pulled into town. After quickly settling in, throwing on biking shorts, and consulting a local cycling shop on the best places around, we were off again just a few miles down the road. The terrain reminded me of Moab in places on a slightly less grand scale, and the trails were amazingly fun for the first outing of the season. The feeling of riding in the sun with green grass and great views made my distress from a lack of a ski season disappear.
One of the great burgers at Cowfish photo courtesy of Mei Ratz
Biking was great, but the star of the show came after. I had heard of Cowfish before; seeing their stickers around and via word of mouth, but none of it really did them justice. Located on Main Street, the restaurant and attached Lander Brewery, were an amazing treat. The menu was seasonal and eclectic with a wide range of salads, steaks, pastas and mains with varying influences. Seeing as I had just burned more calories then your average day I decided to get a sampling of a couple things, all of which hit the mark. The crispy Brussels sprouts with Parmesan, toasted almonds and balsamic were a great
Locally brewed Suds at Lander Brewing Co. Photo courtesy of Mei Ratz
way to start. The Cow Crustacean, a thick sirloin with grilled shrimp, chimichurri, spicy cannelloni beans and wilted greens was a great way to finish. The beer was also a wonderful complement with a couple of my favorites being their Popo Abby Belgium Ale and Rock Chuck Rye (recent medalist at the Great American Beer Festival). The biggest plus, however, was the great people that worked there. Kyle Vassilopoulos, general manager of the restaurant, explained the cuisine as striving to do the very best with things that people are familiar with. It definitely shows, the care in plating and flavor combinations were evident in all the dishes I saw come out of the kitchen. While sourcing locally is hard, they do as much of it as possible, with plans to even get a small garden going in the back. I can tell you, if you find yourself in Lander, don’t pass this place up.
The next day consisted of an early breakfast and beautiful waterfall hike in the morning before heading out of town. Although it was only about 18 hours in total, the spring getaway from Jackson was amazing and I’m already trying to find time to make it back in the next couple of weeks as more trails open up. If your driving to the front range of Colorado there are plenty of reasons to take the scenic (and just as quick) route through Lander and avoid as much of that brain numbing stretch of I-80 as possible. For those of us who enjoy food, beer and the outdoors (which I think is just about everyone living in here), find a day or a week, pack a cool box with your best food and beer, and make the short trip over to Lander — it just might be the perfect cure to your mud season too.
Waterfall up Sinks Canyon
24 hours in Lander? As mentioned, Cowfish and Lander Brewery are definitely places that should be at the top of your list. While you’re there, swing next door to the historic Lander Bar. The Middle Fork had some great breakfast and brunch options for those eating outside of their campsite. Johnny Behind the Rocks was recommended as the best early season ride as it is slightly away from the mountains and gets lots of sun, stop into any of the local out door stores (The Bike Mill, Wild Iris, Gannet Peak Sports) and they will point you in the right direction to that and others. Lander is home to world class climbing just a few minutes up Sinks Canyon, which is great in the spring season. I opted out of climbing but was able to find some great hiking in the canyon area, free of snow as well. The fishing in the region is also something that provides people a great reason to dust off their waders a little early.
